Pebble Tiles

Pebble Tiles

Pebble Tiles - my newest obsession!

All these products can be found at!
I have received numerous emails regarding Pebble Tiles! I figured that I would share some information on Pebble Tiles....
So, there are 3 main types of pebble tiles.  
1.  Polished & Unpolished Pebble Tiles (shower floors, floors, backsplash, counter & walls)
* These are a little rough on your feet - people use these on their shower floors if they want the "massage" feeling for their feet.
2.  Polished & Unpolished Flat Pebble Tiles (shower floors, floors, backsplash, counter & walls)
3.  Standing Pebbles (backsplash and walls)
These pebble tiles come on a mesh so that they can be used on shower floors, backsplash, counter, walls, and even countertops....yes, even countertops!
Let's quickly talk about how to install the pebble tiles.  
Here is quick installation guide for pebbles with pictures, check it out :)
Read more →

Quartz Countertops


Quartz Countertops! I am sure everyone who is remodeling or building has heard this name.  You are curios as to why this is becoming more popular than granite - I figured I would talk about quartz, and get you guys as much information as I can about this new exciting material!

Yes, Quartz is dependable, reliable and durable! Quartz is manufactured which makes the color possibilities endless - you can create any color combination.  You can create a pure white or pure black! How cool!!  Ok, so that's great that it has many colors and is long lasting, but what else makes quartz so desirable? It is impervious to stain, heat. mold, mildew, bacteria, etc.  -  For a kitchen, it doesn't get better than that! 

This was a quick lesson on Quartz! Hope this helps you gather a bit of understating on Quartz!  I have included some pictures of Quartz designs, enjoy!



Read more →

Porcelain Tile 101

What is Porcelain Tile and what are the different kinds of porcelain tiles?

According to the the Tile Council for North America, porcelain tile is defined as an impervious tile with a water absorption of 0.5% or less as measured by the ASTM C373 test method.  

What are the differences between porcelain tiles and non-porcelain tiles?

Porcelain tiles are typically made with "porcelain" clays that have specific properties. Typically, these tiles are dense and by definitio, they have water absorption of 0.5% or less. Non-porcelain tiles have water absorption greater than 0.5%.

Because porcelain tiles have a low water absorption, they are usually frost resistant, although, not always. To know if a tile is frost resistant, you should check the manufacturer's literature.

There are also many non-porcelain tiles that can be used in freeze thaw environments and that are manufactured with properties similar to porcelain tiles.

There are both glazed and unglazed porcelain tiles. It is important to know the difference, as the glazed variety is usually a little easier to clean. Typically, glazed porcelain tiles have filled in microscopic holes that could be present in the unglazed tile. On the other hand, unglazed porcelains may have better slip resistance.

Non-porcelain tiles cover a wide range of properties. Typically they are glazed (unglazed quarry tile is the exception), and the glaze layer can be extremely durable. However, as there are differences from one glaze to another, it is important to check if the tile has been tested and to make sure the glaze hardness is suitable for your application.

In general, non-porcelain tiles are easier to bond to the floor and usually easier to cut. Porcelain tiles are harder to bond and harder to cut. While this can be relevant to the tile installer, it generally makes little difference to the end-user, so long as the installer uses the right materials.

What is through-body porcelain tile?

Some people refer to unglazed porcelain tile as "through body" ( i.e., the color on the top goes all the way through). Even in extreme applications, these tiles tend not to show wear as the porcelain is quite durable (harder than granite), and the color goes all the way through.

Many glazed porcelains also have extremely good durability. Although the color in the glaze layer may be different from the body, the surface is usually sufficiently resistant to abrasion to not show wear in typical applications.

How is glaze resistance to abrasion determined?

Since 1999, U.S. and European manufacturers have been using the same testing method for determining glaze wear resistance - with a value of 4 (on a scale from 0 to 5) being good for almost all applications except the most abrasive and dirty environments. However, lower ratings are also fine depending on where the tile will be used and how much traffic and outside dirt (especially sand, because it is abrasive) will be present.

A rating of 4 can be achieved if there is no visible wear (under test conditions) after 2100, 6000, or 12000 revolutions of the test equipment. A value of 3 can be achieved by passing 750 or 1500 revolutions. Usually the product specifications will indicate which value was passed when the testing was done (for example, one tile might be rated Class 3, passing 1500 revolutions, another tile could be Class 3, passing only 750 revolutions).

Read more →

Stainless Steel Sinks

Hello again! I am back with more....I know it has been a while since my last post as I have become really busy at the new store.  Business is picking up, and I am feeling blessed!

Thinking of buying a stainless steel sink, confused with all the different pricing and grades.  This post should give you a general idea on what to look for when purchasing your sink. The absolutely acceptable sink standard for a home is 18 gauge sink.  A lot of people think that 18 gauge is “bad” – not the case!  18 gauge sink is a perfect grade and weight for a standard kitchen, it does the job and works well over time. 

Things to consider:


1.  Check for the amount of chrome and nickel in the sink - the more chrome and nickel, the better the grade of the steel.

2.  16-18 gauge (thicker) – more impervious to dent, scratches, and better sound insulation.

      20-22 gauge (thin) – less resistant to dent, scratches, and less sounds insulation

      (Stick to 16 or 18 gauge when selecting a sink, not a major difference between the two)

3.  50/50 – One sink, with an equal partition.
     60/40 – One sink, with a 60:40 partition - one side is larger than the other.
     Single Bowl – One Sink, no partitions.  

Stainless steel sinks are durable, gleaming, nonporous and easy to clean.  Sinks are now available in standard undermount (traditional), square undermount (contemporary), rounded undermount (any style), apron (latest trend), and more.  Stainless steel is preferred in kitchens because it is resistant to heat, rust, corrosion, and stains.  Your sinks will also be a bit safer when in stainless steel sinks as opposed to porcelain or cast iron.  Above all else, stainless sinks are very reasonably priced!

All sinks are available for purchase at wholesale prices at!

See below for sink pictures

Standard 50/50

Contemporary One Bowl Sink

Standard 60/40

Standard one Bowl

Apron Sink

Read more →

Wood Look Tile and Engineered Wood

Can't understand how I can love tile so much! I could just stare at all the wonderful material all day!  Lately, customers have been asking me about grey wood look tile, it has become very popular over of the late.  From a design aspect, grey tile give your space a very clean and natural look.  I wanted to share my thoughts on wood like tile versus engineered wood.  While both are fantastic products, I think that If maintenance is your concern then tile is the way to go.

Wood look tile: IT IS TILE so you don't have to worry about water damage, staining it and breaking it (unless you take a hammer and hit the tile, let's hope no one has plans to do that).  Tile is also less expensive cost wise and also less expensive to install and maintain.  You could probably find wood look tile for $2.00 - $3.50/sf.  Although there are some Italian porcelain tiles out there for $6-10/sf - I guess it just depends on your budget.  If you are on a budget then you could easily find some at a reasonable price (email me with what you are looking for and I will be happy to help you find it).

Now, engineered wood, one of my most favorite material.  It is almost impossible to tell the difference between engineered wood and hardwood, really!!  It is so much cheaper than wood, and less expensive to install than the wood.  It is however, a bit more expensive than the tile.  Engineered wood is basically 3 layers, the very bottom layer is usually some type of support or backing consisting of hardwood backing.  The next layer (middle layer) is a  high density board such as plywood or white wood and top layer is an actual layer of solid hardwood veneer.  The more wood veneer it has, the more expensive it will be.  The more plywood or white wood it has, the less expensive it will be.  When shopping for engineered wood, always look for how much actual wood (top layer) it has, the more it has the better it is!

Here is a picture explaining the different layers...

Layer 1 is the bottom layer (support of backing)
Layer 2 is the middle layer (plywood or white wood)
Layer 3 is the top layer (actual wood)
Check out these pictures of wood look tile and engineered wood in various spaces, can you guess which one is tile and which one is engineered wood? It's not as easy as it seems........wishing everyone a fabulous Thursday! I'll be back again with something more about flooring......bye for now!

Enjoy these designs, and please let me know if I can help you folks with anything :)
Read more →